But is seems that this will do little to help true Camaro enthusiasts. The main reason for this is the starting price. Consumers are having a difficult time trying to pay MSRP for a car that they in turn will be stripping.

That is why GM Performance Parts has decided to offer the Camaro body in white. This will help those Camaro racers on a budget to avoid waiting 10 years for a chassis that is discounted.

The new Camaro BIW package will be a full body assembly structure that is available for $7,000. It will go on sale during the first quarter of 2009. The chassis will not have a VIN number so consumers will not have to worry about street registration. However, you must submit an application to Gm Performance Parts for approval before the transaction can go through.

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The bulk of sales will be of the 3.6 V6 (as used in the Cadillac CTS, developed for around 300bhp), at least until the four-cylinder models – probably using the turbocharged GM Ecotec 2.0-litre – arrive. However, a 425bhp top-line SS model is still said to be under consideration.

General Motors has confirmed that the Camaro will come in right-hand-drive form for the UK; it will arrive here in early 2010 with sales of around 600 cars a year planned. Half of these are expected to be convertible versions. While initially GM had considered only offering UK buyers high-spec V8s, this may now be revised.

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Romanians are some of the top on GM’s list to buy the car. That is because many consumers in Romania are interested in the muscle cars like the Mustang. They just have to convince them that the Camaro is better.

Production for the new Camaro should start in 2009 and be ready for purchase by 2010

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The Vice Chairman for GM – Bob Lutz – gave a brief statement of their plans at the New York Auto Show stating that, “the drivetrain under consideration for the Camaro is the same high-performance one used in the Pontiac Solstice and Saturn Sky roadsters. It’s a 2.0-liter turbocharged, direct-injected four-cylinder rated at 260 hp. With its muscle car heritage and optional V-8 engine, the Camaro is hardly the statement of green, high-tech modernism that every carmaker is trying to broadcast these days.”

The good news is that GM might have a perfect solution to this problem. Instead of pitching the car as the next best ‘muscle’ car they will be calling it a car that will help with the fuel economy. GM is looking ahead to the future and taking in the advice of experts that believe the fuel economy will push muscle cars off the market.

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Mark Miller has been restoring cars for over 35 years and has learned many things. “No matter how careful you are, the age of the material you started with is a persistent issue,” Mr. Miller said. Which is why using old body panels will do nothing to change this. The challenges of producing a sharp-looking ’57 Chevy Bel Air or ’68 Ford Mustang are considerable even when the restoration project starts with a solid car. But it is far more challenging when working with what Mr. Miller calls a 10-foot car — one that is presentable when seen from a distance, but proves to be rotted when you look at it closer.

Yet as the cost of potential donor cars continues to rise, and the availability of rust-free bodies shrinks, the temptation to use the 10-footers only increases. “Fixing one of these disasters is invariably frustrating and expensive,” he said. “The ideal approach is starting with a brand-new body of virgin metal.” This alternative — building a car around a complete aftermarket body shell — is what many classic-car rebuilders are coming to regard as a new school of auto restoration.

“The final cost may or may not be lower, but the results are always vastly superior to old-school methods,” Mr. Miller said. Jim Taylor, a metal fabricator at the Roadster Shop in Elgin, Ill., agrees. “The cliché ‘rust never sleeps’ is so true,” he said. “Removing corroded panels to weld in new ones is like assembling a puzzle. And when you’re done, holding rust at bay is almost impossible.”

The desire for cars of a simpler era has not only driven up the prices of restored classics in recent years, it has spurred the growth of an industry dedicated to producing replica parts — even some once considered too complex and costly to make.
Now, obsolete components — like frame rails for a ’32 Ford — are back in stock, and resourceful Detroit-area tool-and-die shops are stamping out fresh body panels for old cars. For the most part, the new pieces are identical to, and interchangeable with, the originals.

Some of those companies have since realized that by adding just a few more panels, they would be able to stitch the pieces together and offer restoration shops a complete body ready for finishing and painting. In some instances, liberties have been taken to improve quality, function or customer appeal. Other manufacturers employ subtle alterations to the alloy or thickness of the metal, and use modern welding processes to increase strength — all the better for hot-rodders who intend to install powerful V-8s under the hood.

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Now, using the recently-discovered tooling that was used to build the original engines, GM Performance Parts is offering a new anniversary edition of the ZL-1 engine. Some of the design features have been updated, and the block casting has been strengthened, but it’s essentially the same motor in the ZL-1 Corvettes and Camaros of 1969.

It’s even officially (under)rated at 430 horsepower and 450 lb-ft torque. Only 427 examples will be produced, although if you can’t get your hands on one of those, you can get a very similar ZZ427 crate motor. See all of the features of the new ZL-1 after the jump.

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The engine under the hood will be based on the same one that powers the much larger Cadillac Escalade. The luxury SUV gets its grunt from an all-aluminum Gen IV Vortec 6.2L V8 (L92), and it sounds like one powering the new Camaro will be much the same, also displacing 6.2 liters through its V8 configuration.

The prototype engine is currently producing “more than 450 horsepower”, so there’s a distinct possibility that with a little tweaking here and there that the new Camaro will get 500 horses to thrust it around corners and quickly down straightaways.

In fact, one GM engineer is saying that the new 6.2L V8 is developing “well north” of the quoted 450 horsepower. Interestingly, despite getting a 10% increase in low end torque, the new engine is 3-6% more fuel efficient than the current engine.

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Before starting on this project you want to make sure that you have all the things that you need. 1 – Gauge pn. XXXX, 1 – Isolator pn. 5280 (High and low pressure), 1 – 4 ft. braided line (Underhood)pn. 3229, 1 – 3 ft. braided line (Under dash) pn. 3227, 1 – Pressure restrictor (Recommended) pn. 3277, X – Misc. Fittings depending on year, 1 – Friend to assist you.

For safety reasons you want to use braided lines. Before starting the installation, make sure the lines are not pressurized. The pressure can be released by pushing the center core of the schrader valve in while holding a folded towel over the valve for safety. The first step is to locate and decore the schrader valve. The center section of the schrader valve unscrews and becomes an open fitting. If you have a TPI the fitting size should be -4AN. This is the size fitting on the end of the braided line. If you having trouble decoring the schrader valve, a replacement can be purchased (exc. LT-1).

Replacement style schrader valves that are color coded and have a larger diameter opening can be purchased from popular Nitrous companies such as NOS and Compucar. Usually 90 degree fittings come in very handy during the installation, especially on the LT-1. Fittings can be purchased from companies such as Aeroquip or Earls. Check with their tech. guys regarding which will work for your application.

Once the schrader valve is free flowing the braided line can be connected. At this time (optional) connect the restrictor fitting to the fuel side of the isolator. Make sure you use teflon pipe thread sealing tape. Once the restrictor is installed into the isolator, use the eraser side of a pencil and push the isolator diaphragm towards the fuel side of the isolator, via the gauge side.

Once you are sure the diaphragm is properly seated, seal off the fuel side of the isolator, with a piece of electrical tape to produce a vacuum and hold the diaphragm still. Remove the bleeder screw from the gauge side. Attached supplied fitting to gauge side of the isolator. Make sure you use teflon tape once again.

Once the fittings are attached to the isolator connect the 3ft. piece of braided line to the isolator on the gauge side. Take note that AN fittings do not require teflon sealing tape. At this time attach the fill tube to the fill bottle supplied with the isolator. Fill the bottle with a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water. (Coolant/Antifreeze and water).

Again take note that the 5280 includes a kit to assist in the filling of the line and isolator. This kit consists of a bottle and other miscellaneous parts. Attach the fitting from the fill kit to the braided line and forcefully start to run the coolant into the lines and isolator, pushing all of the air out of the lines. This is where your friend will come in handy. Once the line and isolator are full and no more air bubbles are coming out of the bleeder fitting, close off the fill line and have your friend tighten the bleeder screw.

Once the bleeder screw is tightened you can remove the fill kit and the braided line should be filled to the top. If it is not full, I would recommend refilling the line and isolator because there is probably an air bubble in the lines. Once the line and gauge are full and there are no bubbles in the line, cap off the line with the supplied, 4AN block off fitting. Now that the isolator is pressurized and equalized drill a hole in the firewall where you want the line to go through.

Next connect the line from the schrader valve to the fuel side of the isolator/restrictor fitting. Route the lines under the hood away from the exhaust manifolds/headers and through the firewall. Once you decide where you want to mount the gauge, route the line to the point of connection to the gauge. To remove the restrictor/dust cover from the inside/back of the pressure port, on the back of the gauge, use a screw that is supplied with the kit and slowly remove the restrictor.

Next, attached the supplied fitting to the back of the gauge using plenty of teflon sealing tape. This is where 90% of the leaks start. Once you think you have enough, put one more layer on. (5 or 6 layers should be good). Continue on to fill the back of the gauge, slowly with the coolant mix using the brown fill tube supplied with the isolator. Tap the side of the gauge a few time to make sure there are no air bubbles in the bottom of the gauge pressure port.

Once the gauge is full you are ready the attach it to the line. If you are using a mounting cup make sure you run the line through it first(don’t forget this step). Remove the block off fitting from the line and top off with mixture if necessary. Once the line is topped off and the gauge is full flip the gauge over and quickly connect the gauge to the line. Try not to spill any of the coolant.

This is easier than it sounds because there will be a slight vacuum produced by the gauge and the coolant will not come rushing out. A few drops is acceptable, although be careful. An air bubble in the line will give a false reading. Usually low. Once the gauge is attached, the volume of fluid in the line will hold the diaphragm back, allowing you to remove the electrical tape.

Finally, go through and tighten down all of the AN and NPT fittings. Once you are sure all of your connections are secure, turn the key on to activate the fuel pump and check for leaks. If you find a leak, shut off fuel pump and retighten and refill gauge line. If any of the coolant leaks out at this time you will need to refill the gauge line. Use caution when removing fuel line, and follow previous instruction to release pressure.

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Craig has been in the Navy for 20 years with four years active duty and the last 16 years with the Reserves. He has been on three tours with his most recent to the United Arab Emirates. Just before leaving on his last tour, Craig began trying to get his Camaro to run with the help of his brother-in-law Bill Douglas, Jr. After working on the car for 30 days straight, they finally were able to start it up.

Craig was able to drive the car for two days before being shipped out. While the car was finally running, there was still plenty of work to be done. Douglas got together with his father, Bill Douglas, Sr., his uncle, Norm Romack and his cousin Jay Romack and decided to finish the car for Douglas before he returned. Craig’s wife Lori got in on the project and helped keep it a secret. “It was fun to keep it a secret,” said Lori. “He’s the one who plays jokes on everyone.”

The Class Pack out of Neoga got into the project although most of the members didn’t even know Craig. They were just happy to be able to help out a serviceman. On Saturday, Craig thought he was picking up his car from a friend’s house. On the way, Douglas brought Craig and his family to a car show that he happened to ‘notice’.

As Craig was looking at the cars, including the 1969 Camaro, an announcer began speaking about military men and veterans and thanking them for their service. He asked if any servicemen were at the show. Craig raised his hand. The announcer then started talking about the Camaro. Craig said he had a similar car, but it wasn’t in as good of condition. When the announcer responded, “Are you sure?” Craig began to realize the car was his.

The vehicle started out red with a black stripe and was painted jet black, Craig’s favorite color. But there is still more work to be done. The car currently has no radio and there are several other small projects Craig can work on with his son Roman. He said Roman will someday get to drive the vehicle. Special plates were airbrushed for the car, dubbing it the U.S.S. Ground up.

Unfortunately Craig only had one day to enjoy his new ride. He was shipped back out the next day for a tour that would last two to three months till he is released.

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The “Third Generation” of the Chevrolet Camaro F-car was introduced in 1982 and had a production run which lasted an entire decade to 1992. The “Third Gen Camaro” went through various trim, facia, suspension and wheel changes as well as engine options. All were of a steel unibody, hatchback design. Various models included the Berlinetta, RS (Rally Sport), Z28 and IROC. If it wasn’t for it’s ubiquity, it would have been more of a head turner, with it’s aerodynamic, Italian supercar inspired lines.

All Third Generation Camaros came with a pushrod-actuated valves, a cast iron block engine, front disk brakes and rear wheel drive. The front “subframe” of the older second generation Camaro was now part of the integrated unibody in the third generation Camaro. Rear leaf springs were dropped in favor of coil springs. The rear was controlled by a long torque arm, a sway bar, a panhard rod, two trailing links, coil springs and shocks.

The front suspension used a MacPherson strut design with a lower A-arm and coil spring. The V-8 horsepower grew from a 145 hp 305 cid (5.0 L) in 1982 to a 270 hp 350 cid (5.7 L) by 1992. It is the ease of engine swaps which makes the Third Generation Camaro superior to the fourth generation for the backyard hot rodder. The third gen Camaro engine is removed by removing the hood and radiator and lifting the engine up and over the engine compartment while the fourth gen swap requires lowering the engine from a raised vehicle.

The Third Generation Camaro was introduced and chosen to be the Indy 500 pace car. It was available with a 4, 6 and 8 (305 cid) cylinder cast iron engine with a 4 speed Borg Warner manual transmission or 3 speed automatic. The Z28 package included a aluminum 15×7 inch wheels, a SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) hood, ground effects / lower body valances which ran the full circumference of the vehicle and a rear spoiler. The Camaro became Motor Trend magazine’s Car of the Year for 1982. It was also the Indianapolis 500, 1982 pace car. Six thousand pace car replicas were sold.

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